It is 1783, and the newly American Republic celebrates its independance from the United Kingdom, leaving the Loyalists with no option but to emigrate. Some found their way North to the British colonies of Upper and Lower Canada. Some went South to the Bahamas, in remote Cays, protected by the reefs enclosing the sea of Abaco. Today, the settlements of New Plymouth, Man'o'War Cay and Hopetown are picturesque reminders of the long standing presence of these sturdy folks in the Abaco Cays, their descendants still occupied in boat building trades, sailmaking, fishing, and subsistence farming. The villages are neat, colourful, and prosperous by Bahamian standards, and some even have a Prohibition era attitude toward alcohol consumption reflecting the Puritanical roots of the original settlers.

Bon Vent is slowly making its way down the sea of Abaco, with a visit to Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island on our itinerary. This is the third largest settlement in the Bahamas, and an important hub for the cruising community to reprovision and effect crew changes. Although we are off season in this area of the Bahamas, we are noticing a significant increase in boat traffic as we move closer to the center of things in the North Eastern Bahamas. The weather is quite nice, the winds light, and the crew of Bon Vent is in great spirits.

Bon Vent in the Northern Bahamas

After a month tied up in dingy Riviera Beach, Florida, we made our crossing of the Straight of Florida to the Western tip of Grand Bahama Island. Old Bahama Harbour at West End Settlement is a typical "luxury" marina in the islands where chronic lack of maintenance leaves one to take cold showers and contemplate rusty or non functioning appliances, but it is a convenient point of entry in the Bahamas and we cleared customs and immigration leaving our $300 (cash only, thank you!) behind for our cruising license, giving us the privilege to proudly hoist aloft our Bahamian courtesy flag. Upon departure for the run across Little Bahama Bank to the Abacos, I hit a post at the fueling dock, and bent the tip of the bow stainless balcony; we are now one more battered sailing vessel plying the southern seas!

It is winter in the Northern Bahamas, and off season, so we have the whole place to ourselves. Currently tied up at the Spanish Cay Marina in the Abaco sea, we are the only boat in the place. That's right, we have our own private island to explore, and last night they opened the restaurant for us. The staff is VERY friendly, and looks VERY lonely. Apparently the place fills up in the Spring and Summer with fishing boats from Florida going in the banks for the big ones. The bar certainly looks big enough for returning fishermans (or fishers as they say in politically correct Canada) to entertain each others with tall tales of the one that got away while quaffing locally brewed Kalik beer. A typical ale of the islands, pale and quite good considering it is probably made with reverse osmosis water...or perhaps they bring the fresh water from Canada...

Cheers!

de retour sur Bon Vent

Depuis trois semaines nous avons repris notre vie nautique, à bord de Bon Vent, mis à l'eau quelques jous avant Noël au chantier maritime Cracker Boy de West Palm Beach, après des travaux de rénovation importants effectués durant l'automne par les experts de Bénéteau suite à l'avarie mécanique subie l'an dernier dans les Exumas aux Bahamas. Nous avons profité du radoub pour faire des changements à l'armement du bateau et résoudre une fois pour toutes les inconvénients de la bôme à rouleau qui ne nous avait apporté que des ennuis depuis l'achat du bateau. Nous avons aussi embarqué un radeau de survie, installé une balise EPIRB, acquis un téléphone satellite, et complété l'accastillage, bref nous avons investi sérieusement pour faciliter la navigation vers les Caraïbes, et rendre plus robustes nos mesures préventives de sécurité. Comme toujours en plaisance, un appareil électronique a fait défaut à la mise à l'eau, et nous attendons la pièce de rechange pour pouvoir enfin quitter notre amarrage à la marina municipale de Riviera Beach en Floride (où il fait bon vivre durant l'hiver disons-le), traverser le Gulf Stream vers les Abacos, et poursuivre vers le sud des Bahamas, puis les Turks et Caicos, et continuer vers l'est et le sud en direction de la Martinique au printemps. Car cette année, nous voulons pousser plus loin notre croisière entamée au lac Michigan en 2009.

Tout cela fait suite à un long et fascinant périple, terrestre celui-là, aux Antipodes, plus précisément en Australie et Nouvelle-Zélande, que nous avons documenté ailleurs. Durant ce voyage de trois mois, Lise est devenue la mamie d'une très jolie petite fille, Alicia, avec laquelle nous avons fait connaissance à notre retour. Un automne bien rempli, donc, et qui a fait un heureux contraste avec "la vie de bateau".

Que 2011 vous apporte santé et sérénité.